WellesleyWeston Magazine

WINTER 2017/2018

Launched in 2005, WellesleyWeston Magazine is a quarterly publication tailored to Wellesley and Weston residents and edited to enrich the experience of living in two of Massachusetts' most desirable communities.

Issue link: https://wellesleywestonmagazine.epubxp.com/i/897427

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Page 174 of 195

ritual of putting up meat for winter, part of hog-killing day. But being frugal, most local cooks use it more for seasoning, a condiment to round out meals based on vegetables and grains. Traditionally meat of any kind is eaten just once or twice a week, she says. Another chapter, "Sweet Potatoes," begins like the oth- ers with a story. "Everything about Grandma's candied yams personified the woman who made them," Howard writes. "Grandma's ver- sion of the classic reflected the degree to which she was a realist, a truth talker, and a prag- matic farmer's wife. Too much sugar was a bad thing, and she warned me on many occa- sions with a stern look and a swat to the hand that I was 'plump enough.'" The North Carolina coast has jumped high er in my must-see list. * * * Naomi Duguid's Taste of Persia: A Cook's Travels Through Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Iran, and Kurdistan (Artisan, 2016) might be the pinnacle of cookbook travel. Tucked among soup recipes is an essay on women in Iran. In the middle of great photographs and detailed recipes, Duguid tells us how she felt when, like the Iranian women, she began covering her head and body and what that experience taught her. Sandwiched between colorful photographs and recipes for Onion Salad with Barberries and Spinach Borani, a dish of thick yogurt and cooked vegetables topped with fried onions and walnuts, are these observations: "Unlike in Burma, where totalitarian rule left people frightened, in Iran I felt that people refused to be afraid, and instead tried to figure out ways of living their lives as fully and freely as possible. I walked around with my camera, knowing I was very obviously a foreigner, and felt no sense that people were eyeing me to take advantage. I walked on my own all over, and only at dusk in the rather deserted covered alleys of Yazd, ill-lit and buzzed by the occasional speeding motor- cycle, did I ever feel uneasy … [On public transportation] women were very welcoming and 173 W e l l e s l e y W e s t o n M a g a z i n e | w i n t e r 2 0 1 7 / 2 0 1 8

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