WellesleyWeston Magazine

WINTER 2017/2018

Launched in 2005, WellesleyWeston Magazine is a quarterly publication tailored to Wellesley and Weston residents and edited to enrich the experience of living in two of Massachusetts' most desirable communities.

Issue link: https://wellesleywestonmagazine.epubxp.com/i/897427

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Page 173 of 195

"People sometimes go on a trip to France, for instance, and when they return, they want to learn French cooking," says Marilyn Lustig, a longtime bookseller at the store. "They come in to see us specifically looking for French cookbooks. Other people will buy cookbooks with no intention of preparing recipes. They are drawn by the visual appeal of really good photography and design." But for travel ideas, she says, not so much. Pointing out their large food literature section … memoirs, essays, histories, kitchen confidentials by chefs, farmers and foodies … and shelves of useful travel guides, she told me, both are popular, although neither is quite what I mean. But then Lustig remembers a gem, Deep Run Roots: Recipes and Stories from My Corner of the South (Little, Brown and Company, 2016) by Vivian Howard. The book is closely connected to Howard's grow- ing up on the coastal plains of Deep Run, North Carolina, where she returned as an adult, after working in New York, with renewed apprecia- tion for its simple food traditions. You might know Howard from her Emmy- and James Beard Award-winning PBS series A Chef 's Life where she celebrates this style of Southern cooking. Her book is "not one that treats the South like one big region where everybody eats the same fried chicken, ribs, shrimp and grits, collard greens, and gumbo," she writes. "I interpret Southern cooking the way we understand French, Italian, and Chinese food: as a complex cuisine with abundant variations shaped by terrain, climate, and people." Chapters are organized not by courses but by 24 ingredients that are mainstays of the region. Ground corn. Oysters. Sweet potatoes. Peanuts. Pecans. Turnips — meaning the entire family of bitter greens. And watermelon: Bacon-Wrapped Watermelon-Rind Pickles, and Pork Shoulder Steaks in Red Curry-Braised Watermelon. Sausage gets a chapter. On the coastal plain it is preferred over coun- try ham. They use every part of the pig. Howard describes the annual C O U R T E S Y O F V O L A N T E F A R M S C O U R T E S Y O F A R T I S A N A N D N A O M I D U G U I D 172 W e l l e s l e y W e s t o n M a g a z i n e | w i n t e r 2 0 1 7 / 2 0 1 8 food & wine "cuisine with abundant variations "

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