WellesleyWeston Magazine

WINTER 2014/2015

Launched in 2005, WellesleyWeston Magazine is a quarterly publication tailored to Wellesley and Weston residents and edited to enrich the experience of living in two of Massachusetts' most desirable communities.

Issue link: http://wellesleywestonmagazine.epubxp.com/i/410492

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The origins of soup have been traced back thousands of years. For Native Americans, soups and stews were important parts of their diet. The women kept a pot on the fire filled with corn, squash, pumpkins, and beans as well as seafood and game, along with berries, honey, and other flavorings. The soup was then served in carved bowls from the burls found in certain trees or in birch bark, reed, or clay pots. In colonial days, European immigrants brought their unique soup recipes with them. German immigrants were known for potato leek, which uses a water base, and quickly became an American staple along with chicken soup, the "mother of all soups." In her book The Way to Cook, Julia Child wrote, "In the old days of a chicken in every pot, everyone seemed to have a rich, succulent chicken stock perpetually simmering away on the back of a coal stove." The reality was, with no refrigeration, this was the only way to make a chicken last. The word soup comes from the French soupe, for bread soaked in broth. In 16th-century France, soup was touted as an "antidote to 202 W e l l e s l e y W e s t o n M a g a z i n e | w i n t e r 2 0 1 4 / 2 0 1 5 Makes about 2 quarts CAULIFLOWER SOUP Wellesley resident and Chef Jeremy Sewall of Island Creek Oyster Bar and Row 34 in Boston includes a number of soup recipes in his new cookbook written with Erin Byers Murray: The New England Kitchen: Fresh Tastes on Seasonal Recipes (Rizzoli New York, 2014). This satis- fying winter soup is light but feels rich. Make it a day in advance so the flavors can deepen a bit. ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 8 large fresh sage leaves 1 head cauliflower, green leaves removed, head intact, stem trimmed Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper 3 Tbsp. canola oil food & wine "perpetually simmering away" 1 leek, white part only, split lengthwise and washed 1 small Spanish onion, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 1 Yukon gold potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 5 cups Vegetable Stock (see recipe on page 206) 2 sprigs fresh thyme 1 fresh bay leaf 2 cups heavy cream 2 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice n Preheat the oven to 400°F. n In a small sauté pan, melt 1 ∕4 cup of the butter with 2 of the sage leaves over medium heat; be careful not to brown the butter. n Place the head of cauliflower on a baking sheet and brush the outside with the melted sage butter. Put the additional sage leaves on top of the cauli- flower head; season with salt and white pepper and roast for 30 minutes. The cauliflower should have some color on the outside but will not be com- pletely cooked through. n Remove from the oven and let sit until cool enough to handle; reserve the sage leaves. Cut the cauliflower into 1-inch pieces. n In a large stockpot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the leek, onion, and potato; sauté for 3 minutes, stirring frequently so that the vegetables don't color. Stir in the chopped cauliflower and roasted sage leaves, then add the stock. Bring the mixture to a simmer; add the thyme and bay leaf. Simmer for 20 minutes, or until the vegetables are almost tender. Add the cream and sim- mer for 10 more minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Remove the bay leaf and thyme sprigs. n Puree the soup in a blender (this may take a few batches) until smooth. Strain the soup through a fine-mesh sieve; season with salt and white pepper. Return the soup to the pot. n Slowly warm the soup over low heat, stirring frequently so that it doesn't burn. In a small sauté pan, heat the remaining 1 ∕4 cup butter over medium heat until it begins to brown lightly, about 3 minutes. Add the remaining 6 sage leaves and cook for 10 seconds, until just crisp; remove from the heat. n Just before serving, season the soup with the lemon juice. Ladle the soup into individual bowls and pour the brown butter and sage leaves over the top of each serving. M I C H A E L H A R L A N T U R K E L L

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