Launched in 2005, WellesleyWeston Magazine is a quarterly publication tailored to Wellesley and Weston residents and edited to enrich the experience of living in two of Massachusetts' most desirable communities.
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While at the Tryst location Turano plays with a romantic theme to the menu and setting, here the ambition is to produce straightforward, nicely executed standbys — snacks, starters, salads, a few good sandwiches, wood-fired flatbread pizzas, and reliable entrees. The seating is tight, the room is loud, and the lighting is harsh, so the experience here has to be buoyed by sturdy serv- ings of good food at reasonable prices. Some of what Cook refers to as "Snacks" are good accompaniments to drinks, if not ordinary, such as meatballs with fresh basil and mozzarella ($7), truffle-enhanced fries dusted with parmesan and served with a rosemary-infused aioli ($6), or marinated mushrooms ($6). But other snacks are more unusual and whimsical, such as the addictive popcorn which is glazed with caramel and tossed with bacon ($5) or the salt-dusted house-made pretzel served along- side a mustard selection for dipping ($3). "Starters," more substantial snacks, can include lobster sliders ($6 each), fried clams served in a little brown bag with tartar sauce and corn chow chow ($13), or shrimp tacos with avocado, red onion, and aji crema, a Peruvian pepper sauce ($5 ea.). There are two standout sandwich options available at Cook, the de rigueur burger ($13), a generous patty with the expected trim- mings, and the even more interesting slow roasted, tender lamb which is tucked into soft pita and dressed with cool yogurt ($19). The centerpiece offerings at Cook are the wood-fired flatbread pizzas, including a lovely wild mushroom version with Fontina, ricotta, caramelized onions, and a dusting of truffles ($14); chorizo with goat cheese, poblano peppers, and crisp fingerling chips ($12); or a straightforward tomato and mozzarella rendition finished with basil and extra virgin olive oil ($12). Flatbreads at Cook can be requested with gluten-free basil crusts, as well. Those with a larger appetite can choose from six entrees, including a spice-rubbed flat iron steak with mashed potato and green beans ($25); a homey classic Bolognese sauce of veal, pork, and beef over fresh pasta ($19); or a choice Cook calls "NFC," Newton Fried Chicken, served forth with gravy, biscuits, mashed potatoes, and cool slaw ($17). And to finish a casual night out with friends or family in this vibrant, raucous space, a brownie sundae with vanilla ice cream, hot fudge, a drizzle of caramel, and whipped cream ($8) or a satisfying banana tart with chocolate crust, served with butterscotch pudding ($8) might be just the perfect ending. Waban Kitchen Waban Kitchen, nestled in the location on Beacon Street where Mediterranean-focused Kouzina used to be, is another new entrant to Newton's culinary scene, and another instance where an 181 s p r i n g 2 0 1 4 | W e l l e s l e y W e s t o n M a g a z i n e 176-181_WWMa14_local cuisine_trio_v2_local cuisine 2/2/14 1:28 PM Page 181